Growing up in a home where my mother covered the floor of her closet with pumps, sandals, flats, and more shoes than Imelda Marcos could shake a foot at, it’s no wonder that at 25 my shoe collection is nothing to play with. Being that my closet is filled with heels ranging from 3 ½”- 5”, I was quite skeptical when I began reading Bad Shoes and the Women Who Love Themby Leora Tanenbaum. While I do not plan on trading in my Calvin Klein platforms for a pair of Aerosoles, I have been convinced to be a bit more practical when deciding which shoes to wear to work versus the ones to wear on date nights.
Leora Tanenbaum is no stranger to shining a light on some of the everyday issues that plague women in this seemingly modern age, her first three books dealt with slut-bashing, cat-fighting, and women reclaiming God. As a feminist writer, it seemed only natural for her to tackle to phenomenon of perfectly sensible women wearing shoes that are unhealthy in the name of fashion and feeling feminine. In the attempt to issue a much needed wake up call to the stilettoed masses, Tanenbaum enlists a bevy of experts on feet, fashion, and the Carrie Bradshaw wannabes who walk Manhattan in Louboutins to the detriment of their bodies.
Most fashion girls won’t be persuaded by Tanenbaum’s assertion that Carrie Bradshaw is “a desperate, disempowered character” and that her closet of clothes and shoes is representation that she is unable to plant her feet firmly on the ground. They also won’t turn down a pair of Manolo’s because they read that the pointy toe box and ultra slim heel is representative of a phallus, or of society forcing us to confrom to another unattainable standard of bueaty that we are too image conscious to ditch. They will however stop in their tracks when they read a quote from Vogue’s Uncle Andre calling for them to stop being fashion beasts and get real.
I, for one, am over the mania for the high, high heel. Too many career women look like a herd of fashion beasts, aping one another in impractical shoes. -Andre Leon Talley
Overall the book is not a call for us to burn our heels but for us to become more informed consumers. Hopefully if you know that the brand new pair of shoes you just spent your entire paycheck on will eventually make your feet look like a Hobbit’s, you will think twice before wearing them all day, every day. For me, while cleaning out my closet is not an option, I have begun to notice how the pain in my feet is connected to the pain in my lower back and that a set of $12 insoles can keep that pain at bay without me having to kick off my flat boots(falts without arch support are jsut as bad for your feet as heels) the second I leave work.
In celebration of the launch of the book, publishers Seven Stories Press is offering ladies the opportunity to win a signed copy of Bad Shoes and the Women Who Love Them along with a free pair of shoes from wither Naot or Thierry Rabotin. For more deatils on the contest go to www.sevenstoreis.com.
Bad Shoes and the Women Who Love Them can be purchased at amazon.com.
London’s Design Museum, the world’s leading museum devoted to contemporary design released two books: Fifty Dresses That Changed the World and Fifty Shoes That Changed the World. The books take you on a virtual historical tour through the ages highlighting the most significant designs in each category.
Fifty Dresses That Changed the World include notable greats from Coco Chanel, Madeleine Vionnet to Hervé Léger and Gianni Versace. Famous faces from Jacqueline Kennedy, Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn grace the pages in dresses that are all too familiar to us. Who doesn’t think of that famous photo of Marilyn Monroe and her white halter dress and she stands over a subway vent? Each dress selected has made it’s own mark on fashion history and has a brief description as to how it came to be, and what is impact on fashion was.
Fifty Shoes That Changed the World explores the most important footwear designs of the last 150 years. From Jimmy Choo to Manolo Blahnik and Nike Jordan I’s to Dr. Martens boots, all manner of footwear are included in this time line. It’s interesting to see how the materials changed throughout the years from the canvas Plimsoll to Melissa’s plastic dreams. Don’t expect to only see pretty shoes in this book – since it covers footwear that made an impact on footwear design and history – unfortunate models like Crocs and Uggs are included. We won’t hold it against them though, they did leave their mark, albeit a not-so-pretty one.
Fifty Dresses That Changed the World and Fifty Shoes That Changed the World are great stocking stuffers or gift ideas for the fashion lover/design guru/history buff in your life. The books retail for $20 and are for sale at Barnes & Noble, Borders, Amazon and Urban Outfitters, along with some smaller retailers.
It’s Fashion Week in New York, and you know what that means– lights, camera, POSE! In celebration of the unveiling of Spring 2010’s biggest looks, Turner Classic Movie channel (which is celebrating its 15th anniversary this year) decided to ask the most popular designers out there, specifically Manolo Blahnik and Todd Oldham, to select some of the most fashionably iconic films of all time. After what we’re sure must have been some “oh-no-you-didn’t!” back-and-forth moments between the designers, TCM is proud to present the official list of the 15 Most Fashionable Films! Enjoy and let us know what YOU think is missing from the list!
Letty Lynton(1932) – Joan Crawford and the designer Adrian were a match made in fashion heaven. The young designer’s work on this 1932 romance about a woman fleeing a disastrous love affair showed Hollywood just how much influence it had on the way women dressed. For Crawford, Adrian created a no-nonsense look that, while maintaining her femininity, accentuated her athletic shoulders. Letty’s white organdy dress with shoulder ruffles was copied and sold to more than a million women. And the broad-shouldered power suits Adrian designed for Crawford created a national rage for shoulder pads. Little wonder Edith Head once called Letty Lynton the greatest influence on fashion in film history.
It Happened One Night(1934) – When Clark Gable had trouble keeping up the pace while removing his undershirt in the famous “Walls of Jericho” scene, director Frank Capra suggested he just remove his shirt to reveal a bare chest. The scene was so sexy, men stopped buying undershirts, leading to a rumor that one underwear manufacturer had tried to sue Columbia Pictures. As if to make up for it, the clothes Gable did wear in the film – Norfolk jacket, V-neck sweater and trench coat – rose in popularity as men around the nation imitated Gable. After the film took off at the box office, Gable decided that trench coats were his good luck charm and wore them in any film he could.
Pat and Mike(1952) – While there really isn’t a single Katharine Hepburn film that established her impact on fashion, this 1952 comedy about an athletic coach breaking into pro sports is the perfect embodiment of her liberating – and at times gender-bending – image. From her arrival in Hollywood, Hepburn defied convention and, for some, morality by dressing like a man, claiming her high-waisted trousers, pantsuits, men’s shirts and loafers were simply more comfortable. The look fit the feisty, independent characters she played to perfection, revolutionizing fashion by freeing women for more active lives with a greater range of choices. So great was her influence that, in 1986, the Council of Fashion Designers of America honored her with a special award.
Rear Window(1954) – The meeting of clotheshorse Grace Kelly and legendary designer Edith Head was sure to produce fashion magic. This Alfred Hitchcock classic established Kelly’s understated elegance, which stood in stark contrast to the florid, oversexed Hollywood designs of the ‘50s. With Kelly perfectly cast as a fashionable socialite, Head was able to create haute couture designs that didn’t seem out of place for everyday wear. From a pale green skirt suit with unfitted jacket to the floral print dress with multiple crinolines, the designs taught working women of that time how to be chic. Kelly’s little square overnight bag even prefigured the “Kelly Bag” that Hermés would eventually name for her.
Rebel Without a Cause(1955) – Fashion would have been the furthest thing from Jim Stark’s (James Dean) mind when he donned a t-shirt and red jacket for a night of trouble. Thanks to Dean’s smoldering presence in Rebel Without a Cause, however, the two items became essential fashion for any self-styled rebel. Filming in color, director Nicholas Ray and costumer Moss Mabry decided that a red jacket, not brown, would help the character stand out. Some sources credit Dean with the idea. Regardless of who thought it up, though, the red jacket became, as Variety editor Robert Hofler has described it, the symbol of “a generation’s despair.”
And God Created Woman…(1956) – When Brigitte Bardot sunbathed wearing neither clothes nor the slightest hint of self-consciousness in And God Created Woman…, a new kind of sex symbol was born, a sexual rebel whose free-wheeling approach to romance anticipated the hippie era of free love. When she did wear clothes, though, she had the wardrobe to match. The long-ignored bikini became an international sensation. The ballet flats, cotton gingham beach dresses and open necklines (the latter dubbed “the Bardot neckline”) that captured her sense of abandon onscreen were soon the rage. And her tousled, up-swept hair, dubbed choucroute (sauerkraut), remains the height of casual elegance.
Auntie Mame(1958) – When John Galliano debuted his new line for 2009, the combination of zany colors, exaggerated silhouettes and exposed undergarments had many commentators crediting Madonna as his inspiration. But The New York Times’ Sameer Reddy placed the influence earlier – on Rosalind Russell’s over-the-top costumes in the 1958 Auntie Mame. Russell’s Mame Dennis lives and breathes fashion (some commentators have suggested the character resembles Vogue editor Diana Vreeland). Although not very influential at the time, Australian-born designer Orry-Kelly’s innovative and daring wardrobe for Mame has since gone on to impact collections and inspire young people to take up careers in fashion.
Breakfast at Tiffany’s(1961) – When Audrey Hepburn ate a Danish while gazing at a Tiffany’s window, the little black dress she wore became the crown jewel in any woman’s wardrobe. Created by her favorite designer, Givenchy, it highlighted her slight figure with simple, straight lines. That wasn’t the only fashion influence exerted by this classic 1961 comedy, one of the last films made with a sense of old Hollywood glamour. As ticket sales soared, so did sales of triple-strand pearl necklaces, sleeveless dresses and oversized sunglasses. But it is the little black dress, dubbed by Manolo Blahnik as “Divine!” and recently auctioned off for $900,000, that established a new standard for elegance that endures even today.
Bonnie and Clyde(1967) – Initially, Faye Dunaway wanted to wear slacks in Bonnie and Clyde, arguing that she’d need mobility for the getaway scenes. When she got a look at Theodora van Runkle’s assembly of printed scarves, pencil skirts, knitted sweaters and bias-cut dresses, she not only changed her mind, the one-time model altered her entire approach to fashion, once saying “… until I met Theodora, clothes … had just been part of the job.” Thanks to the anti-establishment comedy-drama, the “gun moll look” took off, triggering a resurgence of ‘30s retro chic. Even the lowly beret – once the sole property of Frenchmen and struggling poets – became a hot fashion item.
Shaft(1971) – Considered the first “blaxploitation” film, Shaft mirrored the rise of urban chic among young, working-class African-Americans. Former model Richard Roundtree’s wardrobe in the film captured the sleekness and empowerment behind the new styles. Three-quarter-length leather jackets and leather pants combined with turtlenecks and other tight knits made him a fashion icon, the ultimate “sex machine to all the chicks.” Almost 30 years later, Giorgio Armani would draw on the look with a collection inspired by the release of the 2000 remake.
Annie Hall(1977) – Diane Keaton didn’t have to go far to help create a look that changed women’s fashion in this Oscar®-winning comedy; it originated in her own closet. Her eclectic style – mismatched pieces of oversized men’s wear, from floppy hats to baggy chinos, with a Ralph Lauren tie as the coup de gras – sent women running not to boutiques but to the neighborhood thrift shop. It also triggered the renewed popularity of women’s slacks on a par with the craze created in the ‘30s by Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn. Designer Ruth Morley was not sold on the idea initially and tried to nix it. But when Keaton showed up for shooting, director Woody Allen insisted, “She’s a genius. Let’s just leave her alone. Let her wear what she wants.”
Saturday Night Fever(1977) – The ultimate fashion icon of the ‘70s was not of some charismatic actress or famous model. It was John Travolta in his white disco suit, pointing to the heavens in the poster for Saturday Night Fever. He originally wanted a black leisure suit until designer Patrizia von Brandenstein explained that white would catch the disco lights and help him stand out from the crowd. Stand out he did and, for one of the few times in fashion history, men came to the fore. The film inspired a flock of polyestered peacocks in form-fitting clothes with electric colors, open collars and a medallion dangling from the neck. With a pair of platform shoes and a generous application of styling mousse, it was the birth of a new type of glamour designed for working class kids who blew off steam at the local dance club.
Flashdance(1983) – When the sweatshirt Jennifer Beals wanted to wear as welder-by-day/dancer-by-night Alex Owens shrunk in the wash, a fashion craze was born. Designer Michael Kaplan had to cut off the top just to get it over her head, and the image it created on the film’s poster swept the nation. Activewear was in, but not the kind worn on the playing field. Combining torn sweatshirts (specially cut by manufacturers) with leg warmers, spandex pants, headbands and hi-tops, Flashdance fashion made young women everywhere feel as if they were headed to the nearest dance studio. And the feeling is coming back today as the ‘80s revival has generated new interest in the film, its leading lady and her trend-setting look.
More shoes from the Swarovski Wizard of Oz Ruby Slipper Event at Saks. The shoes are gorgeous – they can speak for themselves. Check out shoes from the following designers: Miu Miu, A. Testoni, Jimmy Choo, Gwen Stefani for L.A.M.B., Christian Louboutin, and Manolo Blahnik. We also had a chance to speak with Enzo Vaccari from A. Testoni to learn a bit more about the inspiration and thoughts behind the design. And, there are still more shoes so check back tomorrow!