Flipping through the images of the Fall ‘10 shows, I not only noticed an obvious theme, BOHO, but that this time around it was so totally reminiscent of one Dutch designer, Koos Van Den Akker. The first image of the KENZO show screamed KOOS!

Before there was “BOHO” there was Koos. A Dutch designer who studied in Paris under Christian Dior in the 60’s, came to New York in 1968 and never looked back. He describes his style as “painting with fabric”, mix matched woolens and jerseys and colors and prints. This technique was new to the American scene but he explains was everywhere in Holland, therefore the US industry freaked out. Much of his introduction to the masses came about in the 80’s. He was responsible for Bill Cosby’s sweaters on The Cosby Show, which created quit a stir. Koos says that his work is “a thin line between awful and genius”. I would err on the side of genius and from the looks of the Fall ‘10 collections, I would say that many of the designers would agree.

Get the look by piling on the layers, mixing and match prints, patterns and textures or search out a piece of your very own KOOS and be the look. Learn more about the man himself on the VBS.tv interview.

Moschino, Galliano, Dior, Cavalli, Diane von Furstenberg: All names we’re familiar with but today’s Woman Making History honoree is more than just familiar with those names, she’s been one of the chosen few to work along side them. Elisa Palomino’s “Once upon a Fashion Design” story began at St. Martins College where she and our dear Alexander McQueen (R.I.P.) were classmates.

Before receiving her master’s in Fashion Design from St. Martins, Elisa grew up in Cuenca, Spain, a humble 15th century town. Her mother was an acclaimed restorer of fine arts and her grandmother was a habitué of Haute Couture. With a strong sense of aesthetics in her blood and a passion for textiles, Elisa’s designs are nothing short of remarkable.

In 1995, Elisa’s design career started, as she cultivated the eccentric style of Moschino’s Cheap & Chic line. Five years later, Galliano recruited her to work for his own label and soon after, Dior came knocking. She rose to become head of the studio and helped the fashion house grow creativity.

After her time with Galliano, Elisa worked at Roberto Cavalli as Studio Director. The opportunity to become VP of Design at none other than, Diane von Furstenberg, came her way and she made her way to New York City, where she lives today.

Fall 2010 marked the season for Elisa’s self-titled label. Before we get into the collection, have a look at Elisa’s turn-ons and turn-offs…

We get some exciting fashion insight from Elisa below:

M.I.S.S.: What woman, besides your mom or grandmother, do you find inspirational?

NathaIie Gibson, my tutor from C. Saint Martins and Katell Le Bouhris, my “Fairy Godmother” at Dior.

M.I.S.S.: How did you get your start in fashion design?

At 15, I won a fashion competition with a swimwear collection.

M.I.S.S.: You’ve worked for some amazing designers and have incredible experience. From working with John Galliano and Dior, developing Moschino’s Cheap & Chic line, being the studio director at Cavalli, and currently VP of design at DVF. What are some of the most valuable lessons you learned working at these jobs?

At Moschino I learnt everything about fashion and how to have fun with it. At Galliano and Dior, that there is no boundaries in creativity and the finest craftmanship. And at DVF, how to run a business.

M.I.S.S.: You also design for your own eponymous line. How is it different than designing under another designer?

You can fully express yourself and your dreams. It is your true essence and no compromises.

M.I.S.S.: Did you always want to have your own line? If not, when did you decide to start your own line?

When I met my husband, Tristan Von Christann, a film maker, we decided to create it together. It’s like making a film!

M.I.S.S.: What’s your favorite piece that you’ve created?

I Love them all. Each of them is done with so much love and passion.

M.I.S.S.: Who do you want to work with?

Anyone passionate about their work.

M.I.S.S.: What part of fashion design is the most challenging and do you dislike the most?

Numbers.

M.I.S.S.: Any advice for ladies who are just starting out in a career in fashion design?

To go for it, risk everything and don’t be afraid…it’s lots of fun!

On February 17, 2010, Elisa Palomino debuted her beautiful, eponymous line with a runway show during New York Fashion Week.

WWD reviewed the show:

A longtime collector of Twenties and Thirties kimonos, Elisa Palomino brought the era to life with a feminine lineup of delicate tulle embellished flapper dresses and beautiful Asian floral motifs, in which her time as head of John Galliano’s studio certainly came across.

View the enchanting collection below! And keep an eye out for more Elisa Palomino, her solo line’s sure to continute to excite!

You know when you sit down to watch a Christian Dior show that John Galliano will not skimp on the theatrics – and this show was no different. His collection had 3 main categories: women’s riding habits (the kind when women rode sidesaddle), day suits and dresses and gorgeous gowns.

The women’s riding habits were very influenced by 19th century looks complete with top hats, veils and riding sticks. I loved the signature New Look jackets – some belted, some with velvet collars – all fitting like a glove. His long skirts had beautiful pleated details – usually on one side – and added a bit of fullness and drama to an otherwise plain skirt. The use of wools and plaids in rich tones of red and grey gave these pieces a very warm feel that evoked the English country side. It was a bit Vivienne Westwood Anglomania, yes, but Galliano went with more of a “pretty” interpretation while Vivienne is known for adding her own to cents to these looks in very unexpected ways that sometimes come off as less pretty and more edgy.

The second set of pieces were reminiscent of the pieces women wore to the races and polo matches. All in creamy pastel colors, each dress was topped off with an equally impressive hat with veils. The dresses were opulent with intricate details from floral appliques, beading and embroidery.

The final series of looks were gowns – one more gorgeous than the next. Galliano is not my favorite designer, but I will say that he does the most glamorous gowns that truly live up to the Dior legacy. There was not one gown that would wind up on a “worst dressed” list. These gowns were exceptional and were not subtle or for the faint of heart. Fitted bodices, full skirts, bows, petals skirts, gathering, tulle, beading – it was all there, complete with statement jewelry and opera gloves. These are the kinds of gowns that I would expect to see on the red carpets for the award shows (stylists take note!).

The dramatic clothing was paired with equally dramatic hair and makeup. White bangs (also seen at Chanel) were paired with tremendous up dos. The makeup was a bit much for me. In trying to be theatrical, I thought the make up came off a bit as scary – in a Cruella De Vil sort of way. Models faces were super pale and the very dark eye makeup and ruby red lips were just a bit too much for me. I would have preferred to see something a bit more subtle that let the clothes do the talking, rather than overshadow the clothes.

Image Source

I won’t say to store your motorcycle jacket but do make room for the seasons must have…the trench coat!! Dating back to WWI, the trench coat stems from military influence and was created as an alternative to the heavier coats worn by the British and French Army in WWI. Two famous design houses, Burberry and Aquascutum, are both acknowledged as creators of the trench coat and both still hold true to these roots today. Spawning a trend from function to fashion, the trench coat has been a staple in the wardrobe of military officials, business tycoons and fashion mavens alike. It’s certainly come along away from it’s ten-buttoned, double-breasted full length days and this Spring the trench coat makes it to our list of can-not-live-withouts!! If khaki isn’t your color never fear, Dior does it dark, sexy and to die for.

“What I did is not fashion — it was designed to last forever” (NY Times, July 13th 2009)

This telling quote was uttered by Madeleine Vionnet, the French designer who once made dresses for such stars as Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo. Ms. Vionnet (1876-1975) is currently being featured in a two-floor exhibit at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs in the exhibition “Madeleine Vionnet, Puriste de la Mode” by curator Pamela Golbin. Fans of her work, including Karl Lagerfield and John Galliano, credit her with creating the bias-cut dress and for “freeing the female body” from the prisons of girdles and corsets. Vionnet helped to popularize the “Grecian Goddess” look, especially for sending the models out in her shows sans shoes. She painstakingly made each outfit on a miniature doll before recreating the life-size versions.

Bloated girls everywhere thank Ms. Vionnet! Now we can eat a burrito before going out and the bias-cut dress will hide our kidney bean “food babies.”

Source: New York Times article “Liberating Women’s Bodies” by Suzy Menkes

Couture week in Paris kicked off on Monday and it’s been one gorgeous show after another – we’ll be giving you the lowdown on all of our favorites so stay tuned.  The first show was the Christian Dior Couture show designed by the charismatic John Galliano.  His couture collections for Dior are always very theatrical and this season the term “burlesque” may be more appropriate than “theater” as many of the looks involved varying states of undress.

“In this economic climate, I want to focus on the established codes of Dior: the Bar jacket, the panther, the lily of the valley,” Galliano said of his inspiration for the season.  Galliano does an impeccable job of bringing back Dior’s women of the 1950s gracefully gliding in “new look” pieces.  He took it really back to basics – starting with pretty underthings – they are the basis of all outfits, no? Imagine couture (and thus hand made) bras, corsests, tap pants and garters, girdles and stockings – ooh la la!

The lingerie as outerwear is at its most-sophisticated in this collection, and the plays on sheerness are right on trend for the Fall 2009 season. Many of the looks featured gowns with missing bodices, jackets with no bottoms – but all the models looked supremely put together. The collection featured a fresh invigorating palette of fuchsia, purple, yellow, and orange offset by neutrals such as black, white, nude and blush pink. Though more of a spring palette, I think the colors will serve to boost spirits in this dreary time. All in all, the collection is gorgeous and is a girly-girl’s fantasy – check out the slide show to see the rest of the looks.

Source

As a reader of M.I.S.S. we can automatically assume you exhibit a few qualities: you’re fashion forward, not afraid to take style risks, and you always want to know what’s about to be hot on the streets. Which is why you’ll probably fall hard for the collaboration between French company Pyrenex and fashion wonder kid Alexis Mabille. The two forces have combined to bring forth a collection of futuristic outerwear that’s sure to spice up any winter wardrobe. Your navy pea coat and brown bomber jacket might get jealous, but with Pyrenex’s fur-collared jackets and shiny half-zip down pullovers fighting for your attention, it’s an easy guess as who’s going to win out.

If you’re not familiar with Alexis Mabille, you most certainly will recognize his houses of employment. Starting out as an apprentice at Ungaro and Nina Ricci, Mabille eventually found himself employed at powerhouse Christian Dior, where he created fine jewelry for John Galliano. In ‘05, Mabille branched out on his own to create a ready-to-wear clothing line as well as a line of bowties. Mabille hasn’t been doing half bad for himself, as he’s been featured in publications such as ELLE, W, Teen Vogue, and Marie Claire (and that’s not even the full list).

With his experience at high-fashion locales, it’s no surprise that Mabille’s designs are fashion forward, embracing a futuristic feel. Think of it as bringing high fashion to the masses – the pieces are wearable for anyone. For instance, the fur-collared bomber jacket that comes in gold, black, or blue is the perfect way to stay warm this winter without sacrificing your style to a drab overcoat. (There’s also a double-breasted denim version, complete with fur collar.) You’ll also find a super shiny half-zip silver pullover, which might be so funky it’s fantastic – and definitely requires some fashion courage to pull off. (The same goes for the full-zip gold version. We dare you!)

A personal favorite is the down vest, which you’ll find in black or gold. Vests are a necessity in anyone’s winter wardrobe – you can dress them up or down, depending on the weather. Mabille’s gold and black versions are a step up from basic winter colors (shades of gray? No thanks!); sure to cure any form of the winter blues. Think of how fabulous they’d look paired with a chunky sweater! We’re also loving the button-down-bomber hybrid jacket, seeing as it incorporates the oh-so-popular military influence with a classic winter staple. Fashion forward but almost vintage, if it’s even possible! Speaking of fashion forward, one of the standout pieces of the collection is the down capelet, which features plaid-trimmed pockets and comes in navy. Rounding out the collection are classic winter staples: down vests and jackets, flattering on anyone.

For more information, check out the Pyrenex Web site. To learn more about Alexis Mabille and his work, visit Mabille’s official Web site.

Back in December Marion Cotillard began her role as the face of the Lady Dior bag in the “One Woman, Four Cities,” campaign.  As an extension of the campaign, Dior is creating a six and a half minute film entitled The Lady Noir Film starring the Oscar winner.  In a move paralleling the Chanel No.5 films, Dior has paired a director with a lady that is his muse, in this case, Marion Cotillard and Oliver Dahan, the director of La Vie en Rose.

The Lady Noir Film is a Hitchcock-esque, film noir thriller featuring Cotillard as a femme fatale, a role that suits the French actress.  Galliano stated: “We wanted to capture the glamour, the intrigue, the heroine and the mysterious allure that radiates around her, Marion has brought the Dior woman to life. She is incredible.”  The Lady Noir Film debuts tomorrow on the Lady Dior website.  For clues to solving the mystery, follow Lady Dior on twitter and watch the trailer below.

Marion Cotillard in Dior Haute Couture

The 81st Oscars took place tonight and one word that summed up the night – from the set design, to the fashion – is CLASSY.  It seems like the actors took heed of all the previous award show fashion critiques because most of the dresses were gorgeous and there weren’t many mishaps.  The set design of the show was gorgeous – the curtain was made from 100,000 Swarovski crystals lit from behind.  The band was brought on stage to evoke the big band era of the 1940’s and the way the Best Actor categories were announced brought a few tears to the eyes.  That said, let’s get to the fashion!  There were definitely some trends – the main one being light, neutral colors like white and beige.  One of my favorite dresses of the evening was Nicole Kidman’s but sadly I don’t have a photo.

Pale Perfection

Pale colors were very popular on the red carpet from Marisa Tomei’s white Versace gown to Sarah Jessica Parker’s “barely mint,” pastels were the color of the evening.

Tarji P. Henson in Roberto Cavalli; Evan Rachel Wood in Elie Saab

Ms. Henson’s flower petal dress is gorgeous and she carries it so well. Ms. Wood’s dress is very sophisticated, and together with her retro hair, her look hearkened back to old school Hollywood glamour.  The dangling earrings and black nail polish were a nice touch.

Anne Hathaway in Giorgio Armani Prive; Jessica Biel in Prada

Both dresses are lovely – my only comment about Ms. Biel’s dress is that no matter how great your figure, no one really needs that much extra fabric in front.

Read the full story to see more photos and comments.

Read the full story

John Galliano was inspired by Dutch Master painters and the colors and texture of Dutch pottery and tapestries for Christian Dior’s Spring 2009 Couture collection.  The couture collection showed no signs of the recession and Monsieur Galliano did not have a budget to keep in mind while creating.  Really, do couture and budget even belong in the same sentence?  When asked to comment on the state of the economy, Galliano stated:

Of course I’m sensitive to the economy. Of course I’m aware of it. I read the newspapers; I watch TV,” he said Sunday. “But [dealing with it] is not my job. My job is to do the best I can to show the possibilities of Dior. When you’re standing in a hurricane, you have to keep your feet firmly on the ground. If you panic, whew…you fly away.

Christian Dior’s “New Look” also was definitely a reference especially with dramatic waistlines. I also loved the voluminous, architectural sweeps and oh, the hats with elaborate plumage! Read the full story to see more photos and a bit of the inspiration behind the collection.