Alexis Dayers
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Runway to the Office: A Look at Makeup from NYFW Spring 2012

When I was 14, I looked forward to 11AM on Saturday mornings. I would clean the living room while watching the most valuable 15 minutes of my day – Style with Elsa Klensch. That is where I learned about Oscar de la Renta, Christian Lacroix and Jean Paul Gaultier, just to name a few. After the first few seconds of being wowed by bodices, tweeds, silhouettes – I noted the model’s makeup. Flawless and striking on the runway but could translate a little heavy and scary in real life. I was also a theater geek in high school and we were taught that your rouge should be seen by your Mom in the front row and by the janitor cleaning out the garbage cans in the very back row. Again, scary in real life.

Obviously my weekly allowance couldn’t always provide the latest in fashion but I loved playing with makeup so I could try to emulate what I saw in magazine editorials or on the Style program. I still do this now. Especially, when I see face charts used in certain fashion shows. I may not have all the brands and products used on each model but I use the face chart as inspiration and work with what I currently have in my stash.

I took a stab at two Spring 2012 collections: Jenny Packham and Pamella Roland

Jenny Packham’s collection took inspiration from “gleaming skies of opal whites and azure blues, painted with lavish glittering brush strokes and arresting vivid rainbow hues of geranium reds, sunset oranges, lemon-drop yellows and citrus limes,” ending with dazzling encrusted Swarovski crystals in radiant gold…” The makeup inspiration is late 70’s Jerry Hall and the Rolling Stones song dedicated to her, She’s a Rainbow. An idea that I’m so fond of as I adore Jerry Hall and I’m more of a Stones girl than I am a Beatles fan – sorry Beatles lovers.

The eyes are supposed to be dewy – a drop of clear gloss on top of the shadow. The eyes are void of eye liner but heavy on the mascara layers.

On my brows – MAC Espresso eye shadow applied with the MAC #266 brush. On my lids I used NARS Biarritz (matte ecru), then Chanel’s Illusion D’Ombre in Emerveille (peach shimmer), on the brow bone is NARS Fathom (light pink shimmer). I applied many layers of Laura Mercier’s Full Blown Volume Mascara in Noir on top and bottom lashes. Final touch is Josie Maran’s Argan oil on the center of the lid only. I don’t like that it distorts the color and shimmer. I wouldn’t recommend this for a day at the office but could be interesting and sexy for a date night look. I think a thicker gloss would have been more effective, like a clear MAC Lipglass or even a touch of Vaseline ointment. The argan oil makes it look like I have oily makeup remover on my lid. I do love how the lightness of my shadows make me look awake and alert. It keeps the focus on my lips.

Lip color is a combination of 3 MAC pencils (pictured above – in order of layering: Half-red, a soft burgundy,  Mahogany, intense reddish brown and Redd, bright orange red – center of the lips only). I added NARS Bad Education, sheer crimson red, gloss to the center of my lips then I lightly dragged it to the corners.

On my complexion I used my Laura Mercier Oil-Free Primer and Oil-Free Tinted Moisturizer, Caramel,  mixed with a drop of NARS Illuminator in Copacabana, iridescent pearl. I also used NARS Concealor duo in Custard/Ginger under my eyes.

I think what I liked the best was I only used two different bronzers to sculpt and highlight my cheeks. I used Edward Bess’ Daydream bronzer, a medium golden brown with the lightest amount of shimmer, under my cheekbones and I then used NARS’ Irresistiblement , a matte terracotta bronzer, on apples and tops of my cheekbones.

This is a great look with easy, flowing hair and a slinky slip dress and heels for date night.

My next look is influenced by Pamella Roland’s collection for Spring 2012:

Pamella’s collection was influenced by “American Abstract Impressionist painters…that made New York the center of Modern Art at the time.”

Aside from the disconnected winged black liner, this is a look close to what I wear to the office or out with my girlfriends. I also created this look with less products than the first look featured.

Again brows are set with MAC eye shadow in Espresso and applied with the angled MAC #266 brush. I applied a layer of MAC Paint Pot in Bare Study, soft beige with gold pearl, on the lid only. On top of that is a light layer of MAC Pigment in Vanilla, a soft ivory white, and on the brow bone is MAC’s Arena, soft peach satin. Instead of using a black eye pencil, a liquid or even a gel liner, I used the black matte shadow from the NARS Pandora duo and took a damp Sephora Push Eye Lining brush to apply it. I wanted the line to look soft. And I didn’t connect the corners just like the face chart but I kept the wings at a subtle length. I finish with layers of LM Full Blown Volume Mascara in Black on top lashes only.

As you can see, I forgot to add the under eye concealer. If you have dark circles under your eyes, don’t make the same mistake like I did.

Again, I used LM Oil-Free Primer/Tinted Moisturizer, Caramel, and I added a touch of NARS Super Orgasm, super sparkly peachy pink, Illuminator to the tops of my cheekbones and lightly blended it to the apples of my cheek. On top of the Illuminator, I layered NARS Cream Blush, Lokoum, rose coral shimmer. I didn’t add any Illuminator to my tinted moisturizer or any bronzer to sculpt because I wanted to keep the focus on the rosy-peach color on my cheeks.

Lips were the easiest to capture, Edward Bess Nude Satin, a very sheer brown beige. Because there isn’t any pink in this gloss, it highlights my naturally pigmented lips the best. This is a perfect nude gloss that keeps the focus on my eyes and cheeks but keeps my lips from looking washed out.

I think I may give the disconnected lined eyes a try the next time I go out. It gives the classic black lined eye that I normally wear just a little twist. I love it. I see myself wearing this look with a great pair of jeans, stiletto heels/boots and a basic white tank top, pin striped vest and a black blazer now for Fall/Winter. But I do like this juxtaposed with feminine dresses in a color palette of white, lavender and beige come Spring.

For me Fashion Week isn’t just about clothes and accessories, it’s about how the makeup (and hair) can create and tie a mood together. If you have the patience and willingness to play with your current stash, you can be your own runway makeup artist. This is also a great way to purge what is not working in your stash and what just NEEDS to be discarded.

Just like those jeggings you believed were acceptable trousers at the office.

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4 Responses to “Runway to the Office: A Look at Makeup from NYFW Spring 2012”

  1. Mylani says:

    I really love this look. It totally gives you that “who…me?”/doe caught in the headlights look.

    Every time I try black on the lower lash line, I end up looking like a chola. Did you use the black matte shadow on your lower lash waterline as well? It’s the perfect amount of shadow.

    Have you seen A Single Man? Julianne Moore’s make-up sounds exactly like what you’re describing…maybe a little truer to the 60’s:

  2. Alexis Dayers Alexis says:

    Hey Mylani,
    THANKS – I have yet to see that film and because I heart Julianne Moore and Tom Ford, I am deeply flattered!

    Thanks so much for stopping by – you’ll find me here once a week!

  3. Summer says:

    Love this. The disconnected lined eyes are super modern. Laura Mercier Oil Free Foundation is one of my all time favorites.

  4. Thanks Summer! I had a lot of fun and went through a lot of makeup remover recreating these looks.


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