You know when you sit down to watch a Christian Dior show that John Galliano will not skimp on the theatrics – and this show was no different. His collection had 3 main categories: women’s riding habits (the kind when women rode sidesaddle), day suits and dresses and gorgeous gowns.
The women’s riding habits were very influenced by 19th century looks complete with top hats, veils and riding sticks. I loved the signature New Look jackets – some belted, some with velvet collars – all fitting like a glove. His long skirts had beautiful pleated details – usually on one side – and added a bit of fullness and drama to an otherwise plain skirt. The use of wools and plaids in rich tones of red and grey gave these pieces a very warm feel that evoked the English country side. It was a bit Vivienne Westwood Anglomania, yes, but Galliano went with more of a “pretty” interpretation while Vivienne is known for adding her own to cents to these looks in very unexpected ways that sometimes come off as less pretty and more edgy.
The second set of pieces were reminiscent of the pieces women wore to the races and polo matches. All in creamy pastel colors, each dress was topped off with an equally impressive hat with veils. The dresses were opulent with intricate details from floral appliques, beading and embroidery.
The final series of looks were gowns – one more gorgeous than the next. Galliano is not my favorite designer, but I will say that he does the most glamorous gowns that truly live up to the Dior legacy. There was not one gown that would wind up on a “worst dressed” list. These gowns were exceptional and were not subtle or for the faint of heart. Fitted bodices, full skirts, bows, petals skirts, gathering, tulle, beading – it was all there, complete with statement jewelry and opera gloves. These are the kinds of gowns that I would expect to see on the red carpets for the award shows (stylists take note!).
The dramatic clothing was paired with equally dramatic hair and makeup. White bangs (also seen at Chanel) were paired with tremendous up dos. The makeup was a bit much for me. In trying to be theatrical, I thought the make up came off a bit as scary – in a Cruella De Vil sort of way. Models faces were super pale and the very dark eye makeup and ruby red lips were just a bit too much for me. I would have preferred to see something a bit more subtle that let the clothes do the talking, rather than overshadow the clothes.
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